Climbing and Via Ferrata

Sardinia has long been known as a rock climbing destination with its wild and spectacular rocky interior and coastline. There are many established sport climbing crags across the island. These sport climbing areas are mainly single pitch, though at Supramonte, situated between Dorgali and Oliena, there is a big wall rock climbing area with many bolted multi-pitch routes up to 400m long. Sardinia also offers some great granite bouldering. With its abundance of quality routes, cheap flights, and great weather for rock climbing throughout the year, it is easy to understand why rock climbing holidays in Sardinia have always been popular.

CLIMBING

There are various climbing sites we can recommend. 2 of them are about 20 mins drive from the villa.

            This is the Laerru site (N 40.8170º  E 8.8354º) :

laerru climbing walllaerru climbing schema

Half the routes presented above will not be easily accessible due to plant undergrowth.

For more info : www.rockmadness.it/Laerru.htm as well as  www.falesia.it/Falesie/sop=viewarticle/artid=594/falesia=Laerru.html

                 There is also one under the tower of Castel Doria in Santa Maria Coghinas. Go along and under the restaured tower. The parking  for that is here: 40 º 53’43.18’’N  8 º 53’33.54’’E

 Along the Northern Coast

Northern coast CPclimbing pic

At Capo Testa there is a mixture of sports routes and bouldering on beautifully naturally carved white-grey granite rock.  The granite crag called Cala Spinosa has a grade range between 4C and 7b+

Sassari Area

The main climbing is around Osilo, just to the east and south of Sassari, where there are several limestone crags, which offer good single pitch sport routes. To the west of Alghero, at Capo Caccia, there is some impressive sea cliff climbing on bolted limestone up to 70m long, as well as some Deep Water Soloing (DWS).

Map of the rock climbing and sports climbing areas around Alghero and Sassari

Copyright climb europe
Copyright climb europe

Rock Climbing around Alghero and Sassari

No

Crag

No of Routes

Grade Range

1

Cala Inferno

10

5b to 6b+

2

Casarotto

61

5b to 8a

3

Sperone ovest

29

4b to 7c

4

La Cengia

25

4b to 6b+

5

Placche di Payer

34

5a to 7a

6

Rocca Bagassa

14

3 to 8-

7

La rocca della Regina

50

5a to 7c+

8

Usini

9

5a to 7a

9

Placche del leccio (Ossi)

39

5a to 7b+

10

Giorre e Pedras Serradas

13

4 to 7+

11

Chighizzu

42

5c to 7a+

12

Pianeta delle scimmie

20

6a to 7a+

13

Superpippo

20

5a to 7a+

14

Osilo

55

4c to 7a

15

Dimensione verticale

57

4a to 7b+

16

La muraglia

50

5a to 7b

17

Il castello

20

5c to 7a

18

Il trenino

26

5b to 7b

19

Discount di S. Vittoria

16

5b to 6b

20

Dinosauri

6

5c to 6b+

Another climb  is  “Monte Forte” near the Sassari region. There are 13 routes from 3c to 7a. The crag is located on the road for Argentiera, the rock is quartz. http://www.ssardinia.com/en/land/turismo-attivo/terra/monte-forte.html

The new sport climbing crag is 500 m from Rocca della Bagassa. http://www.ssardegna.it/en/land/turismo-attivo/terra/rocca-della-bagassa.html

There is also the crag of San Lorenzo (Osilo):  “La stella di Argeade”. For the moment there are 9 routes, from 6b to 7b, 10 m of length.

There is a crag near Ossi village with 15 routes, named Fortapasc. For the moment the hardest is rated 6c, but there are still some more projected. The routes reach 14 m of length.
http://www.ssardinia.com/it/sport/turismo-attivo/terra/fortapasc.html

Monte Limbara near Tempio

monte limbara domes

Several of the Monte Limbara Domes as seen from the base of Monte Biancu

Sardegna’s third highest mountain range, Monte Limbara, is a special place. Dozens of beautiful granite domes are scattered around the mountain range, most of which are good climbing or bouldering destinations. The area is remote though it can be seen from the main northern highway SS597 between Olbia and Sassari.

Its highest summit, Punta Ballestreri (1359m), is defaced by countless radio, television and radar antennae but the likes of Monte Biancu, Monte Lisgiu or Torre Littaghesu make more than up for it. Much of the range has been fenced off (thanks no doubt to the radar installations) but can be hiked and climbed nevertheless. Climbing is restricted to “clean climbing” – no new pro allowed to be placed.

One more note: the trails wind through the Sardinian macchia – the undergrowth typical for the mediterranean islands of this area. It consists mainly of wild roses, raspberries, thistles, nettles but also spice bushes like rosemary, thyme and sage. This should give you an inclination of what I want to say: you better wear long trousers just to reduce the bloodletting.

Punta Cugnana near Tempio

puntu cugnana

Punta di lu Lurisincu (545m), Punta Cugnana (650m), Contra li Mandri (532m)

Punta Cugnana (650m) and neighbouring Punta Balbacanu (420m) are typical mountains for the northeastern part of the island of Sardinia (Sardegna). Built from red granite they form bizarre formations due to a typical erosion form called Tafoni . These erosion forms are typical for the islands of Corsica and Sardinia but of course occur in other places as well.

Punta Cugnana though not remarkable in height offers some very typical views of the bizarre, masklike formations and is very easily accessible. You’ll be able to reach the tops with class III climbs and there are a lot of bouldering possibilities. Nevertheless the area is not so much known for climbing, probably due to the fact that many of the formations have razor sharp edges.

There are many more climbing sites in Sardinia. Please look online  if you wish to go further afield.

VIA FERRATA

We haven’t found many via Ferrata in Sardegna. However, there are 3 within easy reach of the villa .

Check the post from the 9th of January 2015 about us climbing 2 of them : the via ferrata del cabirol in Alghero and the via della regina in Monte Leone. Plenty of pictures and extra details !!

There is one near Capo Caccia nearAlghero called “Via ferrata del Cabirol”, 1H30 drive away.

cabirol drawing

cabirol pic 

This ferrata  stretches for about 1000 m along the limestone cliffs of Capo Caccia,  22 km from Alghero. The total climbing time is approximately 3hours. Be aware that the cliff is in the shade until 2pm in summer and it takes 20 mns to get to the starting point on foot.  www.ferratacabirol.it/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=50&Itemid=66

Another via ferrata we know of is in the village of Cargeghe, near Sassari . It is called “ via ferrata di Giorre”  and is about 40 mins drive from the villa.

via ferrata di giorre 2home4home1home3schema

Check  www.ferratagiorre.it

The final and third local one is the via della regina in Monte Leone Rocca doria ( south of Alghero) , about 1H40 mns away.

home1 home2 home3 home4P1030888schema

Check out http://www.ferrataregina.it/ for details.

 

website translator plugin

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s